The Kenzo and Nigo clothing collaboration for the Fall-Winter 2023 Women’s and Men’s Collection, spearheaded by Artistic Director Nigo, represents a dynamic intersection of diverse cultural, era, and style influences. This collection is a testament to Nigo’s fascination with the interplay of British, American, and Japanese street cultures, and it serves as an exploration and expansion of the archival backbone of his practice.
Key Aspects of the Collection
- Theme – “The White Album”: The collection, titled “The White Album,” builds on Nigo’s overarching vision for Kenzo, blending elements from his world and the legacy of Kenzo Takada. It reflects an eclecticism that starts in the Swinging Sixties, moving through Great British country attire and echoing the legacy of Dame Vivienne Westwood, with elements of Kenzo Takada’s work from the 1980s and traditional Japanese construction mingled with American workwear.
- Tailoring and Silhouettes: The collection features a range of tailoring styles, from 1960s youth-adapted suiting, 1980s suiting shapes, to traditional Japanese constructions. Notable are collarless tunic jackets, tapered trousers, mini-skirts, and Y-shaped jacket closures inspired by kendo uniforms. The collection also includes voluminous box-pleat hakama skirts in Japanese denim, tiered and ruffled slip dresses in homage to the 1980s, and echoes of the kilt silhouette native to Great Britain.
- Themes and Motifs: Nigo reworks several archival Kenzo prints, infusing them with punk undertones and tributes to various cultural elements, such as the Boke flower emblematic of his collections, Tiger Badge, and motifs like goldfish, a symbol of good fortune in Japanese culture.
- Materials and Techniques: The collection uses a mix of materials and techniques, including Japanese quilting technique sashiko, a variety of wools, jacquards, and velvets, patchwork shearling suede, denim, and knitwear, creating a rich textural experience.
- Bags and Shoes: The collection features bags and shoes with unique designs, such as the sporran bag inspired by Scottish dress, reversible Kinchaku pouches, the KENZO Clog with a wood wedge, and the KENZO Western ankle boot, reflecting a blend of cultural influences.
- Sneakers and Accessories: The collection includes a new skate sneaker inspired by 1990s skateboarding culture and a new running shoe. Accessories like hats, belts, and necklaces incorporate elements from the collection’s eclectic influences, including punk and mod graphics.
- Color Scheme and Material Choice: The collection uses a palette of navy blues, bright oranges, royal purples, yellow, and plaid patterns. Materials range from shearling suede to sashiko-inspired fabrics, British, Scottish, and Italian wools, jacquards, and corduroys, each piece telling a story influenced by diverse cultures and traditions.
- Cultural Homage and Modern Interpretation: The collection pays homage to the legacy of Kenzo Takada while reimagining and reworking archival looks, creating a wardrobe that balances traditional Japanese construction with American workwear, blending influences into a unique, contemporary fashion statement.
In essence, the Kenzo and Nigo collaboration is a harmonious blend of traditional and modern, East and West, creating a unique fashion statement that is both respectful of heritage and boldly forward-looking.
